How to Frame and Display an Art Print at Home: A Step-by-Step Guide

Quick answer

Measure your print first, then buy the frame. Use acid-free backing or a mat so the paper never touches glass, hang at roughly eye level with two points of support, and keep the piece out of direct sun. If you start with the print's exact dimensions, every later choice gets easier.

Framing a print is mostly a measuring job. Get the dimensions right, keep the paper away from glass and acidic materials, and the rest is hanging and placement. Most damaged prints I see were ruined by a frame bought before the print was measured, not by bad taste.

This guide walks through the process in order, using two real Dripface prints as examples: MIGHTY FINE VINE - mini print at 5"x7" on acid-free cotton fine art paper, and WAITING small print at 6 x 9 inches on 17pt matte paper, signed on the back. Different papers and sizes need slightly different handling, and knowing which one you own changes the plan.

Start with the print, not the frame

Write down the exact paper dimensions before you shop. A 5"x7" print like MIGHTY FINE VINE - mini print fits standard 5x7 frames, while a 6 x 9 inch print like WAITING small print usually needs a custom mat inside an 8x10 or 11x14 frame. Standard frames are cheaper and easier to replace; custom mats cost more but let you use those standard frames anyway.

Check what the print is signed on and where. WAITING small print is signed on the back, so a frame with a paper back you have to tear open means you may never see the signature again. If that matters to you, choose a frame with an accessible back or photograph the signature before framing.

• Measure the paper itself, not the image area, and measure twice.
• Note whether the print is signed on the front or back before you seal it in.

Choose materials that won't damage the paper

Acid-free mats, backing boards, and mounting corners are the difference between a print that lasts and one that yellows. MIGHTY FINE VINE - mini print is printed on acid-free, 100% cotton fine art paper, so pairing it with acidic cardboard backing would undercut the paper's whole advantage. Use acid-free board behind it or skip the backing and use a mat instead.

Avoid dry mounting or spray adhesive unless the print is replaceable. Hinges made from linen tape or photo corners hold the print in place and can be reversed later. For a 17pt matte print like WAITING small print, the thicker paper tolerates photo corners well and resists bending at the edges.

• Glass or acrylic should never press directly against the print surface.
• A mat creates an air gap and is the simplest protection against condensation and sticking.

Match the frame to the room and the wall

Thin black or natural wood frames disappear and let the artwork carry the wall; thicker ornate frames compete with busy designs. If you own several prints, pick one frame style and repeat it. Consistency across three or four pieces reads as intentional even when the artwork is very different.

Consider where the piece will hang before you commit. A hallway with no direct sun is forgiving. A bright south-facing wall will fade any print over time, so either rotate pieces or accept that the colors will soften. There is no coating on most art prints that fully stops UV damage.

• Buy one extra frame in your chosen style for the next print you pick up.
• Rotate prints seasonally if you only have one good hanging spot.

Hang it at the right height with the right hardware

The center of the artwork should sit around 57 to 60 inches from the floor, which is roughly eye level for most adults. Above furniture, leave 6 to 10 inches between the top of the sofa or table and the bottom of the frame. Too high is the most common mistake, and it makes even good art look small.

Use two hooks or nails per frame rather than one, spaced a few inches apart, so the piece cannot tilt. For heavier frames, drive into a stud or use a proper wall anchor. Command strips work for very light pieces but fail with glass and humidity, so keep them for small, light prints only.

• Test placement by holding the frame against the wall before you drill.
• A level is faster than eyeballing, especially for a two-hook hang.

Plan a gallery wall with prints

Lay the whole arrangement on the floor first. Start with the largest piece as an anchor, then place smaller prints around it with 2 to 3 inches of consistent spacing. Mixed sizes look best when the gaps stay even; uneven gaps are what make a gallery wall look accidental rather than designed.

For a mixed-size set, combine a larger piece like WAITING small print with a smaller one like MIGHTY FINE VINE - mini print and let the size difference do the work. Trace each frame onto paper, tape the paper to the wall, and adjust before you commit to nail holes.

• Keep the center line of the whole arrangement at the same eye-level height.
• Paper templates save you from patching unnecessary holes.

Care for the print after it's on the wall

Dust the glass, not the print. If you need to clean the artwork itself, use a dry, soft brush and never a damp cloth. Keep frames out of bathrooms and kitchens where humidity swings, and avoid hanging directly above radiators or vents.

If you rotate or store prints, keep them flat between acid-free boards in a dry place. Rolling a print can leave a curl that never fully relaxes, especially on thicker stock. Handle the paper by the edges only; skin oils show on matte surfaces.

• Never spray cleaner directly on the glass; spray the cloth.
• Store flat, not rolled, and away from damp basements or hot attics.

Your framing and display steps in order

1. Measure the paper: Record exact width and height of the print itself, then decide whether a standard frame or a custom mat will fit. Checkpoint: if your measurements don't match a standard size, plan for a mat.
2. Gather acid-free materials: Use an acid-free mat or backing board and attach the print with photo corners or linen tape hinges. Mistake to avoid: dry mounting or spray adhesive, which is usually permanent.
3. Assemble without glass contact: Place the mat so it creates a gap between the print surface and the glass or acrylic. Checkpoint: the print should not shift or touch the glazing when the frame is shaken gently.
4. Mark the wall height: Aim for the artwork's center at 57 to 60 inches from the floor, and leave 6 to 10 inches above furniture. Mistake to avoid: hanging too high, which is the most common display error.
5. Hang with two points of support: Use two hooks or nails per frame, into studs or anchors for heavier pieces. Checkpoint: the frame sits level and cannot tilt when nudged.
6. Plan the gallery wall on the floor: Arrange all pieces with even 2 to 3 inch gaps, using paper templates on the wall before nailing. Next step: photograph the final arrangement so you can recreate it after moving.
7. Set a care routine: Dust the glass only, keep the piece out of direct sun and humidity, and store spare prints flat. Checkpoint: no direct sunlight on the print surface for more than a short part of the day.

Print details worth knowing before you frame

• MIGHTY FINE VINE - mini print: 5"x7" print on acid-free, 100% cotton fine art paper, hand-signed, original artwork by Dripface. The 5x7 size fits standard frames, and the acid-free cotton paper deserves acid-free backing and a mat rather than a cheap cardboard insert.
• WAITING small print: 6 x 9 inch print on 17pt matte paper, signed on the back, original artwork by Dripface. The non-standard size means you'll likely need a custom mat inside a standard frame, and the back signature is a reason to choose a frame you can open again.

Measure first, protect the paper, and hang at eye level, and your print will look intentional for years. The frame is replaceable; the print usually isn't, so let the artwork set the rules.